Surprise at Vangshylla

While walking across Skarnsund Bridge yesterday, this ship came into view.

Ship approaching Skarnsund Bridge.

Ships from the company, Hurtigruten AS do not usually sail up Trondheimsfjord as far as Vangshylla, though Trondheim is one of the regular stops on the coastal route between Bergen and Kirkenes. The name on the ship is Fridtjof Nansen.

MS Fridtjof Nansen, owned by Hurtigruten AS having sailed under Skarnsund Bridge

The ship sailed under the bridge and continued towards Steinkjer. At home I looked up information about the new ship which didn’t seem to have any passengers on board. It soon sailed back under Skarnsund Bridge and headed towards Verdal.

MS Fridtjof Nansen, having just sailed south under Skarnsund Bridge

Looking up the ship on www.marinetraffic.com, I found out that the ship was on a “sea trial”. The ship was built at Kleven Yard, located in Ulsteinvik, Norway and it had been delivered to Hurtigruten AS on 2019.12.20. The ship is scheduled to have its inaugural voyage in March 2020.

The ship uses hybrid battery powered propulsion to reduce fuel use and CO2 emissions. It appears that the ship will be used for Antarctic cruises. Its sister ship, MS Roald Amundsen, is currently cruising between Chile and Antarctica.

More information about the company, Hurtigruten AS, can be found at: https://global.hurtigruten.com/ including the cruises that they offer.

More information about their newest ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen, can be found at: https://global.hurtigruten.com/ships/ms-fridtjof-nansen/

Low water at Vangshylla

The fjords of Norway are tidal water. The tides go in and out twice a day with approximately six to six and a half hours between each turning point. For example, the calculations for Vangshylla in Norway for the 13th of February 2020 are high tide at 2:23 and 14:38 and low tide at 8:21 and 21:04. Tomorrow the tides will be 45-50 minutes later.

Most of my life has been lived in cities on tidal water, except for a few years as a young adult in my 20s when I lived in cities on a river. The daily flow of water in tidal areas creates challenges for life in the seawater, but also brings in nutrients for life in the seabed and washes away “used” water.

For thirty years I drove to work passing over a bridge with a very strong current (“Oh, the tide is going out!”) and two bays that were laid bare when the tide was out. It always feels like the normal way of life. However, people who live on rivers or lakes will have a different seasonal flow to water levels.

Recently there have been very high tides where I live and it has been fascinating to see how high the tide could get. Suddenly I realized that for those who don’t live here, it may be more interesting to know what is hidden by the water when the tide is in. So this morning at approximately sunrise and low tide, at about 8:30 am, I went out to take some photos to show what is actually under all that water that I’ve been fascinated with for the last four days.

Low water at Vangshylla, Norway, on Thursday, 13 February 2020 at about 8:30 am. Note how narrow the entrance to the boat harbor is when the tide is low. The rock on the left-hand side of the entrance has a marker on it as it would be covered at high tide.
Here is the entrance to the harbor from the inside. At high tide recently, only the rocky edge on the far side of the breakwater has been visible. There has been about three meters difference between high and low water. Anything that is very dark in color is covered in seaweed and would be covered almost every time the tide comes in.
Here is the outside of the breakwater at low water. The photo shows how steep the sides of the breakwater are. Here too you can see a dark area which would be underwater at every high water.
Here you can see the seaweed and logs that have been washed ashore at the high tide and left as the water receded. This gives an idea of how high the water actually came in the last couple of days. Note the steepness of the white ramp down to the floating dock, where yesterday at high water it was actually going uphill.
We have often walked along this very rough beach area in front of the boathouses, though at high water no beach was visible. This is an area one must know one’s tides to be able to make use of the beach.
“Vangshylla” actually means the shelf at Vang and here the shelf can be seen at low water. It is not a sandy beach, but it stretches out quite a way from the high water level which can be seen by the piled-up seaweed.

High water – day 4

Today there was still a very high tide in the afternoon at Vangshylla. It was about 20 cm lower today than yesterday, though still about 40 cm above the calculated high water in the tide tables. Today was a bit windier than yesterday so there was some wave action on the breakwater.

One thing that I find interesting is how accurately they were able to calculate the additional affects of the weather on the high and low tide levels. Even the low tides have been higher than normal.

It is normal that the height of tides varies from day to day, with a monthly swing based on the moon phases. The highest and lowest tides will be when there is either a full moon or a new moon. Where we live there will normally be two high tides and two low tides every day, and the times move about 45 minutes later each day. So yesterday, high tide was at 13:09 and today it was at 13:53. In three days time, the difference between high tide and low tide will only be 2 meters, instead of the 3.5 meters the last few days. This is part of the regular cycle.

This picture was taken about 15 minutes before the official high tide. If you compare it with yesterday’s picture you will note that the breakwater is much more visible, though still quite wet on top and waves were breaking over it. Yesterday the end of the breakwater that bends inward was not visible above the water at all.
Though there weren’t a lot of waves today, there was enough wind for even gentle waves to break over the top of the breakwater leaving it very wet.
It was much more obvious where the end of the breakwater was, with the stones on the outside edge at least showing the location of the breakwater. One news item yesterday was about a boat that had grounded on a breakwater that had been completely covered in water and not visible. That was farther north in Norway where they have also been having extremely high tides,
Quite a bit of seaweed has been washed up on land, but it also indicates that the water was not going to be so high today.
Though it is still a bit uphill along the ramp to the dock, the clearance underneath is much greater than yesterday. Note how much space there is between the ramp and the water. The gap was measured at about 20 cm, which would indicate that the water is 20 cm lower today.

High water – day 3

High water peaked at 13:10 today (2020.02.11) and at 406 cm, which is about 20 cm higher than yesterday. Today the weather was nicer so I was able to take more pictures. The sun was shining and there was no wind. The only waves were when a boat went by.

A high tide at 406 cm occurs roughly every 50 years. The highest astronomic high tide is 364 cm. Anything higher will be caused by weather, which at the moment has to do with an unusually low pressure storm off the coast of Norway. The low pressure pushes the ocean onto the shore creating higher tides than normal.

This picture was taken at 13:23 shortly after high water at Vangshylla on Tuesday, 11 February 2020.
The end of the breakwater was definitely under water, though the table and signs showed where there was something under the water.
The breakwater was dry until a boat went by and the boat’s wake broke over the top of the breakwater.
Not much beach to walk along today.
It was definitely uphill to get onto the dock.
Definitely uphill to get to the boats.
Note that the left end of the ramp onto the dock is almost in the water. There may have been one or two centimeters of air between the ramp and the water.

The forecast is for high water to be a little less tomorrow, but still much higher than normal.

High water – day 2

High water topped at 12:30 today and 386 cm, so almost 20 cm higher than yesterday. Today there wasn’t so much wind, so no particular wave action on the breakwater. On the other hand, it was raining a lot and more difficult to get good pictures.

High tide at Vangshylla at 12:18 on 10 February 2020
Walking out to the boats was on a level, or perhaps slightly uphill.

I was surprised to see men out on the breakwater fishing. They were wading through the water and standing on the table. Two more fishermen arrived while I was taking pictures. I felt that it is a bit dangerous to be on the breakwater when the tide is so high and with more than four meters of water on the inside of the breakwater. I wonder if the fish bite better at high tide. I’m not an experienced fisher so I don’t have the answer to the question. My fishing is done in the freezer department in the food store.

Tomorrow the forecast is for the tide to be even higher still, and hopefully the weather is better to get even more pictures. I’m using data from www.kartverket.no/sehavnivå. The measurements are taken in Trondheim and adjusted for us living farther in the fjord. Time difference is calculated at 0 minutes and height difference at 1.04. It can be noted that the low tides are also 50-70 higher than the tide tables.

Barley

After watching a Norwegian television series, I have decided to use more barley in our diet. Barley is grown in Norway and is actually more suitable to the Norwegian climate than wheat. Wheat can be grown in Norway, but it will vary from year to year how self-sufficient Norway is, depending on the summer weather. Some years Norway can provide 75% of the wheat it needs, and other years perhaps only 20%. So by using barley instead of wheat I can use a grain grown in Norway.

At my local food store I can buy either whole barley grains or whole-grain barley flour. I have been using both in our meals this last week.

Uncooked barley grains

Whole barley grains need to be soaked before using, so that one needs to plan the use of them ahead of time. We usually have a turkey at Christmas time, a childhood tradition for me. The day after turkey day, I like to make turkey soup, boiling the turkey bones to make a rich turkey stock and then adding grains and vegetables to make a hearty soup. This year I bought barley and added it to the soup and it was delicious!

Barley can also be used as a substitute for rice, which is an imported food in Norway. I have used it in various dishes and enjoy the taste of it. It is slightly crunchier than rice and takes about the same length of time to cook as brown rice though it needs to be soaked ahead of time. Use cooked whole grain barley in vegetable dishes to provide the carbohydrates needed to make one feel full and give the energy one needs to do things. It is very good in soups and stews.

On the package of the barley grains, there was a recipe for using barley grains in bread, so I tried that this week. The grains as well as some barley flour were first soaked for an hour. Then the rest of the ingredients were added. This means that the barley grains were not cooked before being added to the bread dough. The recipe also called for pumpkin seeds, so it was a very crunchy bread.

Bread made with whole barley grains and pumpkin seeds.

If we look at the nutritional content of barley flour and compare it with whole wheat flour there isn’t a lot of difference. They both have the same amount of energy, 1350 kj / 320 kcal. Wheat flour has more fat in it, at 2.3 gr while barley flour has only 1 gr. However wheat flour has less carbohydrates at 57 gr as versus barley flour at 63 gr. Barley flour has more fiber at 12 gr than wheat flour at 11 gr. Wheat flour has more protein at 13 gr while barley flour has only 9 gr. Whole grain barley has slightly more fat (3 gr), less fiber (8 gr) and less protein (8 gr)

I use whole wheat flour when making pancakes or waffles, which we have regularly once a week for breakfast. This week I substituted barley flour for some of the wheat flour to see what the taste difference is. I actually liked both the pancakes and the waffles with the barley flour. They were a bit more substantial than the regular ones that I make with only whole wheat flour. I think this is something that I will continue to use.

Barley flour will not rise like wheat flour, so though one can substitute some of the wheat flour, one cannot use only barley flour in bread that is meant to rise. It can, however, be used in flat breads or crispbreads, though I haven’t tried it yet.

The micro-nutrients found in barley can be important in a vegetarian diet. (Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barley#Nutrition) Barley is a good source of:

  • calcium
  • iron
  • vitamin B6
  • niacin (B3)
  • manganese
  • magnesium
  • potassium
  • phosphorus
  • zinc

Much of the barley produced is used in making alcoholic beverages such as beer and whisky. As I do not consume alcoholic beverages I will not go into this use of barley. Barley is also used as animal feed.

I recommend using more barley in your diet as it is nutritious and tasty.

High water at Vangshylla

When the moon is full and there is a storm coming to the west coast of Norway, the tides can be higher than normal. This is the situation at the moment (Sunday, at 11:30 am).

High water at Vangshylla, Norway, at 11:37 on Sunday, 9th of February 2020

The calculated high water at Vangshylla at 11:42 was for 322 cm, but the registered high water level was 368 cm at 11:40. So there is a difference of 46 cm. The forecast for the next few days is for even higher water levels both on Monday and Tuesday.

Our closest measuring station is at Trondheim, which is on the same fjord, but closer to the coast. There the calculated high water level was 309 cm and the registered high water level was 355 at 11:40, making a difference of 46 cm.

With the wind and the high tide, it isn’t safe to walk out on the molo today.
Not much clearance and the waves are breaking over the molo.

On Monday, the expected high water level is 381 cm at Trondheim and on Tuesday it is expected to be 398 cm.

At Vangshylla, the high water level on Monday is expected to be 393 cm and on Tuesday at 412 cm. It is going to be interesting to follow up the next two days when the highest tides are in the middle of the day.

Virtue of the Week – Decisiveness

After a week of Discernment, our random pick has given us Decisiveness to work on this week. It is always interesting how a random pick comes up with something related to the week before. But I think that it is mostly because the virtues are all entwined and cannot be separated from each other.

After a week of thinking things through to come up with the best decisions, it is now time to put those decisions into practice. It is no good knowing what is best, if one doesn’t take the effort to put the decisions into action.

Though I haven’t been writing about things this week, I have been working on changes in our diet, looking to see what is available in my local food store and buying different ingredients to make changes in our diet. See other blog posts for more information about these changes. I will continue to look for new recipes this week and to make different things with new ingredients.

“Decisiveness is firmness of mind in taking a stand or making a decision. It requires us to be both courageous and discerning. At times, a choice appears and we must make it instantly, without hesitation, prompted by a deep knowing that it is right and timely. Decisiveness can also call us to hold a decision with patience, prayer and deep contemplation. We seek a pure intent, which guides us to a conclusion we can trust. Then one day, we reach the bedrock of truth and know it is time to act. We move forward with resolve and confidence. Being decisive, we are content with our decisions and do not second-guess ourselves. The timing of a good decision is just Divine.”

I am practicing Decisiveness when I

  • have the courage to decide
  • have confidence in my choices
  • am not afraid to act in the moment
  • take the time I need to discern the wisest path
  • trust my deepest truth
  • carry my decisions into action.

Virtue of the Week – Discernment

Discernment is not a commonly used word today and yet it implies that one thinks and reflects before making decisions and acting. Discernment implies that one makes good decisions, based on facts and not being swayed by what is in fashion.

For me, discernment is using the knowledge that I have gained over 70 years to help me decide what is right for me. For example, my husband and I are trying to alter our diet, so that the foods we choose to eat are less harmful to the environment. Today a lot of meat is raised by feeding the animals foods that we could eat ourselves. This becomes a waste of resources. By deciding to cut out meat from our diet, we are hoping to have a slightly smaller impact of the global environment.

Another decision has been to buy locally produced food where possible. Tomatoes and cucumbers are grown in greenhouses in Norway, but they are grown locally and are not transported long distances to the stores. Carrots and potatoes are also grown locally, though in late spring, the Norwegian supply may be used up and they have to be imported until the locally produced vegetables are again available. I have an egg farm close by, so I can walk up there and buy my eggs both fresh and locally.

By doing some investigation about the food that is produced in Norway, I want to work on buying less imported foods and learning to make interesting and nutritious meals with ingredients that have a lower impact on the environment. For example, I have found out that barley is grown in Norway, but that very little is eaten by humans. Barley is nutritious and good for us, so it will be given a more prominent place in our varied diet.

Discernment is accessing the wisdom of our intuition to discover what is essential and true. Detaching from our desire to rush decisions, we seek to distinguish the true from the false, the facts from our assumptions, and then choose the best path. Reflecting in silence creates space for our deepest perceptions. With contemplative vigilance, we open ourselves to clarity. We listen deeply for the true questions, trusting that the answer will unfold and reveal itself when the time is right. We become alert to the messages that come in subtle and surprising ways. We hold decisions lightly until the truth emerges. Discernment empowers us to be guided by Grace.

When I practice Discernment, I

  • trust my inner vision
  • seek full information
  • release the pressure to decide by determination alone
  • take time for reflection and prayer
  • hone my intuition
  • am alert to the signs placed in my path
  • am open to revelation

To eat or not eat meat

After watching a program from Norwegian television (NRK) called Line fikser maten (Line makes food), I am even more convinced that cutting out meat and fish from our diet is good for both my body and the planet.

I first became aware of the problems caused by the consumption of meat when reading, Diet for a Small Planet, back in the 1970s. The author, Frances Moore Lappé, was concerned that eating meat was not sustainable on our planet and she showed how one could use plant products to supply the protein we humans need to consume. She showed how to combine foods to create good nutrition and give enough protein on a daily basis. She also provided lots of recipes so that one could get started with creating a new healthier diet.

Published by Friends of the Earth and Ballantine Books, New York, 1971. My copy is from the 12th printing in 1974.

Already at that time, I went over to a diet that used proteins from plant products and reduced my intake of meat, fish and poultry. It has since been shown that one doesn’t need to complement foods in the way that Lappé suggested to get adequate protein, though one should still think carefully about which types of foods should be eaten during the day.

In 1980, my husband and I moved to Norway and had very little money to live on. We lived on the coast, so fresh fish was affordable, but meat was not. We rarely ate meat, except for the occasional ground beef. Poultry was also not nearly so common back then and not particularly cheap, at least for our income level. A wide variety of legumes was not available either, so we lived on quite a restricted diet. I never felt that we had poor nutrition though I do remember trying to buy everything on sale, especially canned goods.

Once we started working in Norway, and our income improved we also started eating more meat and poultry. The cost of meat became relatively cheaper and certainly poultry became cheaper and easier to get hold of. Over the last forty years, the availability of a variety of food has improved and imported food has became much more common.

Now we eat a wide variety of legumes, most of which are imported from Asian countries. Though I do prefer to buy vegetables that are grown locally, not everything is in season year round. As an example I was able to buy the first locally produced tomatoes today and they haven’t been available for several months. Much of our fresh produce comes from Spain, Israel or South Africa.

We live in an agricultural area, surrounded by farms. We have an egg farm as one of our nearest neighbors and we walk up there to buy farm fresh eggs. Some of the farms nearby are meat producers, either beef or pork. Potatoes, carrots and other vegetables may come from neighboring communities. But bananas, oranges and grapefruit are still not grown in Norway. However with climate change and the increasing use of greenhouses to produce plants, there may come a change in what is locally grown in the future.